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The Naturals
MFD of Perfumery The Naturals Crossword Puzle June 09, 2007
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Across
1. A pale yellow or greenish mobile liquid with a fresh, terpeney top note and a warm, rich, sweet-balsamic undertine. EO by steam distillation from the selected oleo gum resin (approx. 3-10% oil to 60-70% resin). An absolute is also produced, for use mainly as a fixative.
4. Used as a fragrance component in perfumes, especially aftershaves, spicy and oriental fragrances. 1. Leaf oil is a yellowish-red or brownish liquid with a powerful sweet-spicy scent, similar to cloves. 2. Berry oil is a pale yellow liquid with a sweet warm balsamic-spicy bodynote (middle note) and fresh, clean top note.
6. A colorless or pale yellowy-green liquid with a sweet, nuty-herbaceous scent. EO by steam distillation from the flowering tops and leaves. (A concrete and absolute are also produces by solvent extraction). The French, Moroccan and English clary are considered of superior quality for perfumery work.
10. Botanically related to lemongrass, citronella, litsea cubeba and flouve oil (also from the roots of a tropical grass). A dark brown, olive or amber viscous oil with a deep smoky, earthy-woody odour with a sweet persistant undertone. The colour and scent can vary according to the source- Angola produces a very pale oil with a dry-woody odour.
11. The absolute is used extensivly in high class perfumery work, especiallly oriental, floral and citrus blends; also used as a fixative. The oil is used in eau-de-cologne and toilet waters (traditionally with lavender, lemon, rosemary, and bergamot).
14. 1. A resinoid or resin concrete and absolute by solvent estraction from the crude gum. 2. An essential oil by steam distillation from the crude gum, the absolute, or from the leaves and twigs of the plant directly. Used as a fixative and fragrance component; especially in oriental perfumes and aftershaves. Native to the Mediterranean mountains regions and the Middle East.
15. It is a pale yellow brown crystalline mass with a persistent, sweet, balsamic odour and a peppery undertone, somewhat reminiscent of Hyacinth. It is used as a fixative in perfumes, especially the dry distilled type
16. Often found on beaches, a product from the sperm whale, highly valued in perfumery.
18. A yellow or amber-colored liquid with a warm, dry, woddy-earthy odour. EO by steam distillation from the dried fruit (seeds). Pinene, cartol, daucol, limonene, bisabolene, elemene, geraniol, geranyl acetate, caryophyllene, among others.
19. The Bourbon oil is a greenish-olive liquid with a rosy-sweet, minty scent, preferred in perfumery work. Citronellol, geraniol, linalol, isomenthone, menthone, phellandrene, sabinene, limonene, among others
20. 1. The absolute is a dark brown or orange viscous liquid with fresh, delicate yet rich, warm sweet-floral fragrance; very true to nature. 2. The oil is a pale yellow mobile liquid (darkening with age) with a light, sweet-floral fragrance and terpeney top note.
21. A pale yellow to amber liquid with a fresh-floral citrus scent and a woody-herbaceous undertone. Extensively used as a fragrance component in perfumes, especially colognes (sometimes used to replace orange blossom).
Down
2. A water white to pale olive mobile liquid with a fresh, dry-woddy, warm, spicy scent. Used for the unusual effects in perfumery work, for example, with rose or carnation in oriental or floral fragrances.
3. A pale yellow or orange oil with a spicy-warm, sweet, long-lasting odour. Native to southern Europe; extensively cultivated as a domestic vegetable.
4. A pale yellow or olive liquid with a sweet, floral, rosy, geranium-like scent. EO by steam or water distillation of the fresh or dried grass. Used extensively as a fragrance component in perfumes due to excellent tenacity. Used for the isolation of natural geraniol.
5. The absolute is a redish-orange or olive viscous liquid with a rich, sweet, spicy-floral, tenacious odour. Believed to be a native of the Orient, now cultivated mainly in Bulgaria, Turkey, and France. Similar types are grown in China, India and Russia.
7. Known to have about 300 compounds present in the expressed oil; mailny linalyl acetate (30-60%), linalol (11-22%) and other alcohols, sesquiterpenes, terpens, alkanes ad furocoumarins (including bergapten 0.30-.039%). A light greenish-yellow liquid with a fresh sweet-fruity, slightly spicy-balsamic undertone. On aging it turns a brownish-olive colour.
8. The exotic-type oil is a yellow or pale green, with a slightly coarse sweet herbaceous odour with a camphoraceous tinge. The leaves contain < 1 % essential oil of variable composition. Major constituents are 70-80% methylchavicol (estragol) with small amounts of linalool, cineol, camphor, eugenol, limonene, citronellol and methyleugenol, methyl cinnamate, 1,8-cineole, caryophyllene, etc.
9. The oils is a pale amber or brown viscous liquid with a rich sweet, balsamic, "vanilla-like" scent. Native to central America; production takes place mainly in El Salvador
12. There are over one hundred constituants in the oil including benzyl acetate, linalol, phenylacetic acid, benzyl alcohol, farnesol, methyl anthranilate, cis-jasmone, methyl jasmonate, among others.
13. A colorless to pale yellow liquid with a sweet, woody-spicy, slightly musky fragrance. EO by steam distillation from the crushed ripe seeds. (An essential oil is also produced by steam distillation from the fresh and dried leaves, which contains a high proportion of decylaldehyde)
17. A pale greeny-yellow liquid (turning brown with age), with a light fresh sitrus scent. Top note in perfumery
18. 1. The bud is a pale yellow liquid with a sweet-spicy odour and a fruity-fresh top note. The bud oil is favoured in perfumery work. 2. The leaf is a dark brown oil with a crude, burnt-woody odour. 3. The stem oil is a pale yellow liquid with a strong spicy-woody odour.
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