Mid-term Quiz 20070729

Couldn't confirm presence of Flash 7 or higher because JavaScript was disabled.Get FlashI really do have Flash installed.ul{margin-top:0px;margin-bottom:0px;list-style-type:none;padding-left:20px;}1. Lilal is an alcohol and one of the most widely used lily of the valley type aroma chemicals that is used as a blender?

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

2. Named after a city in Italy where it was first sold. This mystery is known to have about 300 compounds but mainly linalyl acetate, linalol, as well as other alcohols, sesquiterpenes, terpens, alkanes and furocoumarins.
A light greenish-yellow liquid with a fresh sweet-fruity, slightly spicy-balsamic undertone; this mystery will begin to turn to a brownish-olive colour upon aging. It blends well with lavender, orange blossom, jasmine, cypress, geranium, lemon, chamomile, juniper, coriander, and violet.

[ ] a. Neroli

[ ] b. Bergamot

[ ] c. Damask Rose

[ ] d. Narcissus

[ ] e. None of the above

3. ETHYL METHYLPHENYL GLYCIDATE

A floral sweet rose honey balsam note associated with a berry fruit, that can be used in up to 8% of the total fragrance compound; a top note with a odour life of 23 hours this mystery will prove useful in fantasy and foody/fruity perfumes.

[ ] a. Aldehyde C-18

[ ] b. Aldehyde C-8

[ ] c. Aldehyde C-16

[ ] d. Raspberry Ketone

4. Coumarin is Classified as a lactone; that occurs naturally in botanical sources of woodruff, and sweet scented vernal grass. It can be found in oils of Peru balsam, Tonka, cassia, orchid, lavender, and liatris (deer’s tongue). It is a favorite in a perfume base for vanish creams and for soaps.

The odour is suggestive of new mown hay with hints of chocolate.

Mostly stable but can develop problems in the presence of alkali, but it does not discolor. it is completly safe for use in all applications even in food and confectionary use.

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

5. This mystery is used as a solvent for musks and as a fixative and dilutant in floral compositions; such as lilac, carnation, lily of the valley, orchid, jasmine, etc. It is an ester of benzyl alcohol.

An almost colorless liquid that solidifies at room temperature it is found naturally in small amounts in carnation, primula auricular, and ylang ylang. Note: It is possible that this particular sample is not pure. All my notes tell me that it solidifies at cool room temperature; this one is not solid so I am not sure what is going on here. It could be that it is just too hot here and that it is remaining liquid for this reason.

Stability: Relatively stable and will not cause discoloration

Solubility: Soluable in 9 volumes of 90% alcohol

This particular mystery gains its value due to it fixation and dilution abilities as opposed to any odour qualities it may possess.

[ ] a. Benzyl salicylate

[ ] b. Benzophenone

[ ] c. Benzyl acetate

[ ] d. iso-Amyl salicylate

6. Linalool is a naturally-occurring terpene alcohol chemical found in many flowers and spice plants with many commercial applications, the majority of which are based on its pleasant scent it adds lift and can be considered as a blender and modifier. Over 200 species of plants produce this chem/natural, mainly from the families Lamiaceae (mints, scented herbs), Lauraceae (laurels, cinnamon, rosewood) and Rutaceae (citrus fruits), but also birch trees and other plants, from tropical to boreal climate zones. It was also found in some fungi. One common downstream product of this chem/natural is Vitamin E.

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

7. This chem/natural has a great tenacity but can, upon aging, develop a rancid off odour. The low cost of the starting material and the simplicity of the production process make this one of the most commonly used and produced in this class it is an effective fixative and is often used in oriental, fougere or chypre blends.

[ ] a. Musk T

[ ] b. Ethylene Brassylate

[ ] c. Takasago

[ ] d. 1,4- dioxacycloheptadecane-5,17-dione

[ ] e. All of the Above

[ ] f. None of the Above

8. This chem is used in tuberose, gardenia, floral-Orientals and imparts a bit of creamy goodness to any composition. One of the few that can be used at 100% this chem is a wonderful addition to any perfumer’s organ.

In 1927 attention was drawn to the fact that fruit-essences were appearing on the market under trade names of ______________________ and it was pointed out that these compounds were usually, chemically, either lactones or esters. Confusion in this area was owing to the fact that these molecules did not contain this number of carbon atoms of their counterparts. This chem/natural is made up of mostly benzyl formate, is soluable in alcohol. An odour experiment would be proper in using a 10% solution of this chem with iso-amyl salicylate. This chem/natural can be found in many historic perfumes that include White Shoulders and Lou Lou.

[ ] a. Aldehyde - C-19

[ ] b. Benzyl Formate

[ ] c. Aldehyde C-18

[ ] d. Benzyl Butyrate

[ ] e. None of the above

9. First found in nature in 1894 this chem/natural has since been found in a number of sources. In mixtures that include this chem/natural with vanillin, coumarin, and heliotropin gradually assume a dark brown colour and it is for that reason that that the use of ethyl vanillin is a better choice for perfume compositions.

As a nitrogen compound this chem/natural has a surprisingly pleasant aroma. Used as a blender and modifier this chem/natural has a sweet, orange flower odour. Usage can go as high as 10% but caution in blending is advised. A colourless, mobile liquid, showing a faint blue fluorescence this mystery chem/natural would find a use in most floral or floral-oriental fragrances.

[ ] a. Aurantiol

[ ] b. Methyl Anthranilate

[ ] c. Neroli

[ ] d. B-Naphthyl methyl ketone

[ ] e. Indole

10. The trees of this species yield resin for two or three years and are then cut down, being used for the manufacture of matches. The natives loosen rectangular pieces of bark so that the resin can trickle out and solidify in the heat of the sun. It is collected and placed on a strong mat in ginger-roots, hollowed out and filled with the marrow of the pig. The mat is then tied up and left for a year. From time to time these mats are opened to see if the fat has been taken up. If not, fresh fat is added, but when the fat has disappeared from the ginger the resin is ready for export.

In perfumery it is used to give "body" to a perfume, and is also a good fixative. In carefully controlled dosages, as a fixative for light, floral perfumes. Excessive proportions of this mystery in a perfume gives rise to suppression of the fragrance and the appearance of "Friar's Balsam"

[ ] a. Balsam of Tolu

[ ] b. Benzoin Resonid

[ ] c. Peru balsam

[ ] d. Myrrh Resinoid

11. Nerol an aroma chemical that is found in nature in many citrus elements; this versatile chem/natural can be used in up to 20% of the fragrance composition. This is one chem/natural the purity does matter; depending on the purity level it will take on a more rose note or a more seashore emphasis

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

12. This chem will bring out the animal in all creations. With an odour life of hundreds of hours, this mystery is often used as a fixer in fragrances but it is best used in high dilution. Found in nature in cheese, cocoa, tobacco, wine and other items; it is also used in flavor components, once diluted the sweet malt vanilla/chocolate can be detected.

[ ] a. Civet Givco

[ ] b. Phenylacetic acid

[ ] c. Phenylpropyl alcohol

[ ] d. Para-Cresyl iso-butyrate

[ ] e. None of the above

13. Composed mainly of esters such as linalyl acetate and geranyl acetate this citrusy/herbaceous mystery is found in nature where its primary origin is in southern China and north-east India. However the best quality is found in France as well as other locations around the globe. One of the classic ingredients in eau de cologne this mystery shares a common link with other more commonly known elements that are also highly valued in perfumery. A pale yellow to amber liquid with a fresh-floral citrus scent and a woody herbaceous undertone that is sometime used to replace orange blossom.

[ ] a. Petitgrain

[ ] b. Lavender

[ ] c. Bergamot

[ ] d. Neroli

[ ] e. Clary Sage

14. Phenylethyl alcohol is so commonly used in perfumery it finds its way, at least in part, into most all perfumes as a blender. This mystery is an antimicrobial, antiseptic, and disinfectant that is used also as an aromatic essence and preservative in pharmaceutics and perfumery. This chem/natural is found in apple, apricot, banana, beer, carnation, blue cheese, geranium bourbon, hyacinth, kiwi fruit flowers, lily, champaca, mushrooms, narcissus, neroli, orange, orange juice, orange flower, peach, pear, raspberry fruit, rose, rose absolute, rose concrete, rose distillation waters, strawberry, tea leaves, tobacco leaf, wine and ylang ylang.

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

15. Sweet and aromatic this aroma chem/natural is derived as esters from acids and the list is very brief for this classification.

This aroma chem is not found in nature but is considered to be of great value to the perfumer; it can be found listed under different names of Orchidee, Trefle, Trefoil or clover flowers and Shirley poppy.

For the brief list of these esters the student should observe two facts; firstly, that the odour variation follows the short pendulum swing from pronounced wintergreen to a strong orchid, abruptly diminishing in intensity, with increase in molecular weight, to the odorless crystallined; and secondly.

As seen in the data regarding the first three aromatic alcohols, there is a tendency for these esters to conform to a fairly regular odour pattern but, as is observed, additional and desirable perfumery qualities follow the cinnamic unsaturation and anisic esther-ester background.

Characteristics: Form: Liquid; Color: clear ; Odour Herbaceous, woody, orchid

Solubility: Soluble in alcohol, ether; insoluble in water and glycerol.

Uses: Soaps, perfumes, orchid, fern, new mown hay, hyacinth, cyclamen, camellia, carnation, wallflower, chrysanthemum, mimosa, chypre; spicy, woody, oriental compositions.
Extensively used as a basis of all orchid and clover perfumes; in small amount as a modifier and a fixative. Derivation: Esterification of salicylic acid with amyl alcohol, in presence of hydrochloric acid. Purification by; redistillation.

[ ] a. Methyl Salicylate

[ ] b. Salicyl Aldehyde

[ ] c. Hexyl salicylate

[ ] d. isoAmyl salicylate

[ ] e. Phenyl salicylate

16. This Chem/Natural has a very long history of use. With a sweet, woody, slightly musky odour this chem/natural finds use in both food and fragrance. Consisting mainly of linalol (55-75%), decylaldehyde, borneol, geraniol, carvone, anethole, among others; this mystery will blend well with a wide variety of both naturals and synthetics.
Used as a top note in many famous perfumes such as; Boucheron for men, Cool Water for men, Escape for women, Opium for women; this chem/natural is a staple for all perfumer’s organs.

[ ] a. Parsley Seed

[ ] b. Coriander

[ ] c. Black Pepper

[ ] d. Pimento Berry

17. This chem/natural is 90-97% Linalol and alcohols, depending on the source. It is a colorless to pale yellow liquid, sweet, woody-floral with a hint of spice. This chem/natural helps to give body and to round of sharp edges in perfume compositions.

Soluable in alcohol (6/60% or 2/70%), fixed oils, propylene glycol, benzyl benzoate; slightly soluable in glycerin; in perfumery it is also an isolation of methyl nonyl ketone.

This chem/natural has warnings that include the following: contact produces erythema, vesication; ingestion causes epigastric pain, nausea, vomiting, convulsion, and death.

[ ] a. Linalool

[ ] b. Basil Oil

[ ] c. Geraniol

[ ] d. Rosewood Oil

[ ] e. Palmarosa Oil

18. Musk Ketone is classified as a nitro compound this came first came into recognition during the production of dynamite.

It is a yellowish crystal who’s melting point is 135 C. Most often used in oriental, heavy, and sweet perfumes it provided excellent fixation in most compounds. As compared to other compounds in this category, this chem is somewhat finer and warmer and is closest to its natural counterpart.

Fixation: Not only an odor constituent of perfumes but a great fixative due to the high boiling point.

Stability: May give rise to discoloration as, for example, with amines such as indole and anthranilates, also certain aldehydes.
Blends well with: benzyl salicylate or methyl ionones to produce attractive, “powdery” effects.

Famous perfumes that use this compound: Arpege, Cabochard, Chanel No. 5., Emeraude, Jicky, Joy, L’air du Temps, My Sin, Shalimar, Tabu, the list goes on and on…

What dilutant is most commony used for this particulat aroma chemical?

[ ] a. Diethyl phthalate

[ ] b. Alcohol 95%

[ ] c. Benzyl Alcohol

[ ] d. Benzyl benzoate

[ ] e. Alcohol 70%

19. Perfumes: Fixative with lasting sweet note for many types (oriental, rose, geranium, sweet pea, mimosa, lily of the Valley); other polymerization inhibitor, organic synthesis; insecticides.

Appearance: White crystals with a balsamic rose or geranium-like odor.
______________ is used to prevent ultraviolet light from damaging scents and colors in products such as perfumes and soaps.

This allows the manufacturer to package the product in clear glass or plastic. Without it, opaque or dark packaging would be used. It can also be added to the plastic packaging as a UV blocker.

It is also sometimes used as a flavoring agent.

[ ] a. Benzophenone

[ ] b. Benzyl Butyrate

[ ] c. Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol

[ ] d. ortho-anisaldehyde

[ ] e. None of the above

20. Trichloromethyl phenyl carbinyl _________ or Rose __________

Appearance: White Crystals -Odour Description: Heavy Deep Rose Floral - Mild at first, very weak green-rosy balsamic odor of excellent tenacity. The odor is much more perceptible when the material is in solution.
Uses and Applications: Perfumes: Talcum powder; bath salts; fixative for essential oils , especially rose and geranium, and powdery type rose perfumes. Also a rosey mild odour used as a modifier.

What classification does this aroma chemical belong to?

[ ] a. Alcohol

[ ] b. Aldehyde

[ ] c. Acetate

[ ] d. Salicylate

[ ] e. None of the Above

21. One of the few green naturals; this mystery is an intense dark green viscous liquid with a strong green leaf odour and delicate floral undertone. Due to the cost it is used in high class perfumery work and occasionally used in flavoring, mainly in confectionary. The major constituents are nonadienal, parmone, hexyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, ionone, and viola quercitin.

22. So one whiff of this should send you to your perfume organ for your handy dilutants; this chem/natural is soluable in either alcohol or DPG. It has an extremely powerful fatty citrus note, noticeable even in high dilutions.
Because of its higher molecular weight, it is long lasting, a property which adds to its value. Natural occurrence : • beef cooked beef • butter • caviar • chicken • coriander leaf • cucumber • fish • grapefruit juice • lamb • lemon • milk • peanut • pork

The prescience of this aroma chemical was probably first noticed by J. Gerhardt when he reported that the oil of rue first reduced a silver solution.
This aroma chem was, however, first recognized as such in nature in 1904 when it was shown by comparison with a specimen produced by synthesis that an aldehyde isolated from the oil of abies pectinata was in fact this mystery chem.

This aldehyde, when concentrated, has a fatty, pungent and unpleasant odour; but diluted under .5% the odour becomes more pleasant recalling the odour of wild violets and its leaves that can impart a fresh note to fragrances. In minute traces, below 0.1% it will improve and lift freshness of floral and fancy perfumes.

This aroma chem is Aldehyde C-12, but which one... lauric or MNA?

[ ] a. Lauric

[ ] b. MNA

23. This one you will need to dilute to a 10% or 1% ratio to get the effect you desire. When diluted you will note a fatty herbal note that is used as a modifier in perfumes; this will provide a fresh amber citrus moss note. It may also present a tuberose or fresh orange character that is very diffusive.

To increase stability of this chem a solution should be prepared using a solvent of ethyl alcohol; this will considerably increase the stability of this chem most likely as a result if the formation if hemi-acetals. It is a good idea to store these chems in a 50% alcoholic solution in glass or aluminum containers.

This one is also Aldehyde C-12, but is it Lauric or MNA?

[ ] a. Lauric

[ ] b. MNA

24. Guiacwood oil, a natural, is extracted by steam distillation from the broken wood and sawdust of this tree. It is a yellow, amber or greenish, soft or semi-solid mass with a pleasant tea-rose type odour. It sometimes has an unpleasant smoky undertone. It finds use as a fixative in soaps and fine fragrance and also is used as an anti-oxidant in foods.

In recent years Guaiacwood oil has been used to adulterate rose oil due to its tea rose like odour. It can be recogonized, however, by the microscopic examination of its principal consitutent, guaiol, which forms sharp needle-like crystals that seperate from the oil on cooling. The addition of guaiacwood oil to rose oil als raises the congealing point of the oil and increases its specific grabity so that its presence as an adulterant may be easily detected.

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

25. This chem/natural is a Narcotic floral citrus note used as a blender; it has an odour life of about 120 hours and is suggested for use in narcotic-floral, orange flower honeysuckle muguet fragrances. Dosage limits are around .12% - 9.4% the bright yellow coloring may also discolor perfume formulations.

Recommended smelling in a 50% solution this chem/natural is soluable in 2 parts 60% ethyl alcohol, almost all organic solvents, in fixed oils, propylene glycol, volatile oils; slightly soluble in water, mineral oils; insoluble in glycerin.
Derivation: By heating anthranilic acid and methyl alcohol in presence of sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid and further distilling; by condensation with hydroxycitronellal producing - “# 19”, a greenish-yellow viscous liquid.

Characteristics and uses: Honey and Neroli

[ ] a. Oranger Crystals

[ ] b. Hydroxycitronellal

[ ] c. Methyl Anthranilare

[ ] d. Aurantiol

[ ] e. Orange Blossom

26. Peru Balsam is used as a fixative and fragrance component in soaps, detergents, creams, lotions and perfumes. Depending on the process this mystery can often avoid any discoloration and it is also used in most food categories including alcoholic and soft drinks.

It is native to Central America; but productions takes place mainly in El Salvador. This will blend well with ylang ylang, patchouli, petitgrain, sandalwood, rose, spices, floral and oriental bases. The principal constituents are benzoic and cinnamic acid esters such as benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, and Cinnamyl cinnamate.

This natural has restrictions due to senisatization issuse as put forth by IFRA, and should not be used in perfumes as a fragrance ingredient. It can be prepared as an extract but should not exceed a total level of 0.4% in leave on skin products.

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

27. This mystery can be produced by esterifiying salicylic acid with methanol. Commercial it is now synthesized, but in the past, it was commonly distilled from the twigs of Sweet Birch (Betula lenta) and Eastern Teaberry (Gaultheria procumbens).

It is used as a rubefacient in deep heating liniments, and in small amounts as a flavoring agent at no more than 0.04%.It is also used to provide fragrance to various products. It is also used as an odor masking agent for some organophosphate pesticides. If applied in too high quantities it can cause stomach and kidney problems.

It is one of many compounds that is attractive to males of various species of orchid bees, who apparently gather the chemical to synthesize pheromones; it is commonly used as bait to attract and collect these bees for study.

It also has the ability to clear plant or animal tissue samples of color, and as such is useful for microscopy and immunohistochemistry when excess pigments obscure structures or block light in the tissue being examined. This clearing generally only takes a few minutes, but the tissue must first be dehydrated in alcohol; and can also be used as a transfer agent, to produce a manual copy of an image on a surface.

In pure form, this mystery is considered to be toxic, especially when taken internally. The lowest published lethal dose is 101 mg/kg body weight in adult humans. It has proven fatal to small children; one teaspoon contains 7,000 mg of ________, equivalent to 21 aspirin, in doses as small as 4 ml.

[ ] a. salicylic acid methyl ester

[ ] b. Methyl salicylate

[ ] c. oil of wintergreen

[ ] d. betula oil

[ ] e. methyl-2-hydroxybenzoate

[ ] f. All of the above

[ ] g. None of the above

28. One of the early aromatic substances of the ancient world; there are three types of this mystery. A resinoid, an absolute, and an essential oil; the resinoid and absolute are extracted from the crude gum and produce a semi-solid green or amber mass with a rich herbaceous balsamic odour. The EO is a dark yellow or amber viscous liquid with a warm, sweet, dry-herbaceous musky scent that is distilled from the leaves and twigs of this plant.

This mystery is used as a fixative and fragrance component in soaps, lotions, and fine perfumes, especially oriental perfumes and aftershaves. It contains over 170 pinenes, including camphene, sabinene, myrcene, phellandrene, limonene cymene, cineol, borneol, nerol, geraniol, fenchone, and others. Exact constituents vary depending upon the source.

It is believed that early collection was done by sheep and goat herders who would comb this sticky substance from their flock prior to sheering.

29. Several different variations of this mystery exist, further information can be found under Pseudomethyl___________, all with different CAS numbers and all similar but chemically different. All possess a sweet, woody, powdery, violet, orris odour. What is the missing part of this pseudomen?

30. This natural was named after a princess in Italy. There are two different types of extractions a concrete produced by a solvent extraction of the freshly picked flowers and an essential oil produced by steam distillation from the freshly picked flowers. The concrete or absolute is a dark brown or orange viscous liquid with a fresh, delicate yet rich, warm, sweet-floral odour; very true to its natural state. The EO is a pale yellow mobile liquid that darkens with age, that possesses a sweet floral odour with a terpeney top note. Principal constituents are: Linalol (34% appx), linalyl acetate (6-17$ appx), limonene (15% appx), pinene, nerolidol, geraniol, nerol, methyl anthranilate, indole, citral, jasmine, and other minor constituents.

Please name this natural.

31. It is a genus of flowering plants in the rockrose family, containing about 20 species (Ellul et al. 2002). They are perennial shrubs found on dry or rocky soils throughout the Mediterranean region, from Morocco and Portugal through to the Middle East, and also on the Canary Islands. The leaves are evergreen, opposite, simple, usually slightly rough-surfaced, 2-8 cm long; in a few species (notably C. ladanifer), the leaves are coated with a highly aromatic resin called … if I tell you I will give it away.
One of the early aromatic substances of the ancient world, it is used as a fixative and fragrance component, especially in Oriental perfumes and aftershaves.
It will blend well with: oakmoss, clary sage, pine, juniper, calamus, opopanax, lavender, lavindin, bergamot, cypress, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, olibanum, maroc chamomile, and oriental bases.
Principal constituents are: over 170 pinenes, including camphene, sabinene, myrcene, phellandrene, limonene, cymene, cineol, borneol, nerol, geraniol, fenchone, etc. Exact constituents will vary according to source.

By the way… this is one of your wild card naturals! Can you name this natural?

32. This tree has been cultivated in plantations for over 2,000 years and was one of the originating reasons for the spice trade which led into today’s perfumery. The original wild trees in the Moluccas produce an essential oil that contains no eugenol at all. The tree provides us with three different EO’s from different parts of the tree. Please identify each type with each number?
1. sweet-spicy odour and a fruity-fresh top note -
2. crude, burnt-woody odour -
3. strong spicy-woody odour. -

[ ] a. 1. Clove Stem, 2. Clove Leaf, 3. Clove Bud

[ ] b. 1. Clove Bud 2. Clove Stem 3. Clove Leaf

[ ] c. 1. Clove Bud 2. Clove Leaf 3. Clove Stem

[ ] d. 1. Eugenol 2. Acetyl iso-eugenol 3. iso eugenol acetate

33. This mystery is said to sweeten the tone of certain perfumes.
An aldehyde found in many oils, including balsam of Peru, tolu, gum benzoin, styrax, oakmoss and oil of cloves it is soluable in

125 parts of water
20 parts of glycerin
4 parts of 50% alcohol
2.5 parts of 70% alcohol
2 parts of 95% alcohol

In addition to being used in perfume compositions this mystery chem/natural has also become important as a deodorant to mask unpleasant odour of many manufactured goods. It is claimed to be excellent for drinking water with an objectionable chlorine odor, for deodorizing rubber goods, and imparting a pleasant odour to wearing apparel. Only traces are required for these purposes, because the odour of this mystery is reported to be perceptible in dilutions of 0.0000002 mg. per cubic meter of air.

This mystery needs to be kept in the dark and is known to discolor when used. Too much and it can be a problem in any application but in the right amount it is usable in almost any formulations.

[ ] a. Heliotropin

[ ] b. Coumarin

[ ] c. Vanillin

[ ] d. Aldehyde C-18

[ ] e. None of the above

34. Also known as Queen Anne’s lace; you will usually find traces of this chem/natural in Chypre, Fougere, Oriental and floral-aldehydic perfume compositions. A yellow or amber-colored liquid with a warm, dry, woody-earthy odour this chem/natural that blends well with costus, cassie, cedarwood, geranium, most citrus and spice oils. The main chemical properties of this natural are acetic, pinene, carotol, asorone, limonene and bisabolene.

[ ] a. Mimosa

[ ] b. Coriander

[ ] c. Carrot Seed

[ ] d. Celery Seed

[ ] e. None of the above

35. A sweet fruity-floral rose leaf odour somewhat green and remotely lavender-like odor of moderate tenacity this chem/natural can be used in formulations up to 12% as a modifier and sweetening agent in floral and fancy perfume compositions.. Being more stable this aroma works well with rose, neroli, and cologne blends. It is soluable in 8 volumes of 70% alcohol. A principal constituent of Rose Otto, and of Citronella, Geranium and Palmarosa oils; it also occurs very widely as a minor constituent of many other essential oils.

[ ] a. Bulgarian Lavender Oil

[ ] b. Geranyl Formate

[ ] c. Geranyl Acerate

[ ] d. Gerinol

36. The sweet honey-rose; peach like odour this chem/natural is used as a modifier in floral fragrances, especially heavier rose notes, and Jasmin, Hyacinth, and Mignonette; also used in oriental fragrances. It is soluable in 8 parts of 60% ethyl alcohol, ether, and almost all fixed oils.

Phenylethyl acetate is a very stable chem/natural. Look to the following perfumes to find an example of this use; Blue Grass and My Sin. For our class base project you will find this in use in the sweet Pea base but it may prove useful in carnation, honeysuckle, hyacinth, jasmin, Lily of the Valley, and a host of other fragrances, especially where a tropical note could be used.

At what percentage can this chem be used?

[ ] a. 5%

[ ] b. 10%

[ ] c. 25%

[ ] d. 50%

[ ] e. 75%

37. B-Naphthyl methyl ketone is used as a fixative for citrus this chem/natural is a white crystal that is recommended to be used at a 10% solution that is dissolved in DPG or alcohol; producing a sweet neroli, orange blossom odour. Because of phototoxicity it is restricted to 0.2% in the finished product for “leave on or wash off skin” products.

This chem/natural will blend well with aldehyde C 9, linalool, methyl anthranilate, nerol, petitgrain and other materials; it is used in balsam, cologne, jasmine, and many citrus compositions. A famous perfume to use this is My Sin.

What is the common name for this aroma chemical?

38. This is a colourless mobile liquid. Powerful but "thin", sweet floral, fresh and light fruity odour reminiscent of jasmine.

Storage & Handling:
_________________ is a neutral ester with no appreciable effect on metals. Storage can be done in metal or HDPE barrels.

Extensively used in perfumery.
Highly appreciated in cosmetic fragrances.
Frequently used in flavour compositions.
Largest component in jasmin, gardenia fragrance.

This chem/natural is found naturally in many flowers. It is the primary constituent of the essential oils from the flowers jasmine, ylang-ylang and tobira; also found gardenia, hyacinth, loiseleuria procumbens desv. (azalea), neroli, strawberry, tuberose. It has pleasant sweet aroma reminiscent of jasmine. Consequently, it is used widely in perfumery and cosmetics for its aroma and in flavorings to impart apple and pear flavors.

It is also used as a solvent in plastics and resin, cellulose acetate, nitrate, oils, lacquers, polishes and inks.

Also known as phenylmethyl acetate; it has been used in many famous perfumes like: Chanel #5, Blue Grass, Jicky, Joy, My Sin, Shalimar, Tabu, and Zibeline. In fact this is one of the most commonly used aroma chemicals in the making of perfumes.

It is also used in Ice cream, Strawberry Shakes and a host of other food products.

[ ] a. Benzyl salicylate

[ ] b. Benzyl acetate

[ ] c. Geranyl Acetate

[ ] d. Benzyl alcohol

[ ] e. Benzyl Phenyl acetate

39. It is now known that the characteristic odour of this chem/natural is produced mainly by the presence of skatole (3-methylindole) and a ketone named zibethone and, so far, it has not been found possible to produce a synthetic fixative as efficient as genuine of the real item.

It is interesting that Daniel Defoe (1660–1731) before he became the author of classics such as ‘Robinson Crusoe’, ‘A Journal of the Plague Year’, and ‘Moll Flanders’, was employed in a number of different ways, one of which was breeding _________. The commercial importance of this chem/natural in the 17th century is indicated by the fact that it was possible to earn one’s living in this way.

It is this substance that has through the ages come to identify a perfumer. It was not uncommon for related tradesmen to adopt similar signs and the one that found greatest favour with perfumers was the __________. In 1705 D. D. D. Dighton, who later became “sworn perfumer” to King George I, carried on his business at the “City of Seville”, in Fleet Street, and displayed an elaborate sign depicting a __________ above a panoramic view of Seville. James Smyth and Nephews in Bond Street (1766), Walter Turnbull at 41, Cornhill (1780) and Philip Dixon of 1 Norris Street (1790) all used the sign of the __________. In addition, Stephen Brearcliffe, who is listed as a chemist and druggist, used the attractive ____________ and three herrings near Cloth Fair in West Smithfield, in about 1760.

40. In the 19th century, two important changes occurred in the Western world of fragrance. The 1867 Paris International Exhibition exhibited perfumes and soaps apart from the pharmacy section, thus establishing an independent commercial arena for "cosmetics." Even more significant was the production of the first synthetic fragrance, ___________________, in 1868, followed 20 years later by musk, vanilla and violet. Eventually this list expanded to many hundreds, then thousands, of synthetic fragrances-the first perfumes unsuitable for medicinal use. What is the name of first synthetic aroma chemical?

41. Citral is sharp, strong citrus note is used as a modifier. As a top note, it can be useful in eau de colognes, fruit, spicy, and foody fragrances and was used in the famous perfume My Sin. Because of it popularity it is used in high concentration in most citrus formulations providing a juicy mouth watering lemon odour.

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

42. It is widely used in lily of the valley, lilac, etc., where a sweet floral character is desired. More stable than hydroxycitronellal it is highly resistant to alkalies and is nonirritating to the skin.

Developed by Professor Blane of the University of Paris in 191 it was originally manufactured in Switzerland; the first shipment to the USA was in 1925.

Various grades of this myster are marketed. The finest perfumery grades are colorless liquids, possessing the clean, characteristic __________________ odour free from any undesirable by-odors.

[ ] a. Dimethyl heptanol

[ ] b. Linalool

[ ] c. Cyclamen Aldehyde

[ ] d. Hydroxycitronellal

[ ] e. Lyral

43. Sweet, nutty-herbaceous composed mostly of Linalyl acetate (up to 75%), linalol, pinene, myrcene and phellandrene, among others. Used in both the food and fragrance industry this chem/natural should not be used while drinking alcohol as it can induce a narcotic effect and exaggerate drunkenness. Blending well with Juniper, lavender, coriander, cardamom, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, pine labdanum, jasmine, and frankincense; this chem /natural should be in every perfumer’s organ.

[ ] a. Clary Sage

[ ] b. Palmarosa

[ ] c. Violet leaf

[ ] d. Ylang ylang

[ ] e. Petitgrain

44. The most famous Egyptian fragrance, kyphi (the name means "welcome to the gods"), was said to induce hypnotic states. The City of the Sun, Heliopolis, burned resins in the morning, myrrh at noon and kyphi at sunset to the sun god Ra. Kyphi had more than religious uses, however. It could lull one to sleep, alleviate anxieties, increase dreaming, eliminate sorrow, treat asthma and act as a general antidote for toxins. Several recipes are recorded, one of the oldest being a heady blend of calamus, henna, spikenard, frankincense, myrrh, cinnamon, cypress and terebinth (pistachio resin), among other ingredients. Cubes of incense were prepared by mixing ground gums and plants with honey, similar to a technique used by the Babylonians and later adapted by both Romans and Greeks.

What is one ingredient missing from the above that was recently posted by a group member? Clue: This product can be chewed and is often used as a flavoring in spirits. It comes from a unique crop which only grows in the Chios Island located in the Aegean Sea.

45. Being an alpha beta unsaturated alcohol, this chem/natural is of academic interest and the variations in the chemical and physical properties of this chem/natural and its geometrical isomeride, nerol, have been studied extensively. There is a true difference in the odour quality of the two with nerol possessing a more delicate and valuable odour to the perfumer.

Because of the universal appreciation of sweet scents, this chem/natural finds extensive application in all types of perfumes as a blender; including compositions in which the rose note is NOT important, and thus may be looked upon as a sweetener.

This chem/natural is catalytically oxidized to citral and employed in the manufacture of ionones, citral can be obtained by chromic acid oxidation of the chem/natural.

While the highest or purest grade is derived from geranium oil the highest volume is derived from palmrosa oil; there are more than 160 essential oils that have this chem/natural as a constituent also to include, rose geranium, citronella, verbena, lemongrass, rosewood, linalol and petitgrain among many others.

[ ] a. Nerol

[ ] b. Geraniol

[ ] c. Phenylethyl Alcohol

[ ] d. Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso

[ ] e. Isoraldeine

46. Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Alcohol is considered to be a modifier but with a medium odour life can often be added neat to the fragrance composition. It is a solid and although not found in nature this chem is soluable in alcohol and IPM; a cool floral note that is often found in fruity sweet candy type fragrances.

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

47. Aldehyde C-11 is often used as a modifier but because it is very weak it does not require dilution. Considered to be a top note it is often used in citrusy eau de colognes. Made famous by accident many years ago this chem/natural is a staple in all perfumers’ organs.

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

48. These are the five things necessary to characterize a fragrance material;

1. Character (Concord grape, Cherry, Peach, Pineapple etc.)
2. Contribution (character impact, contributory or differential item).
3. Concentration (amount in ppm)
4. Environment (with/without acid, milk, sugar acid and water.)
5. A fragrance material must always be smelled in a base . . . that is, diluted down and always compared with an unfragrance base. (This stops us from seeing things that are not there.)

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

49. Most aroma chemicals will react with each other under favorable circumstances. The reaction rate depends on many factors, the most important of which are:

[ ] a. If they are aldehydes or alcohols

[ ] b. Purity and strength of the chemicals

[ ] c. Temperature, PH, and Light

[ ] d. As long as some naturals are used in the base

[ ] e. None of the above

50. I have learned a lot and I am really looking forward to the next part of the class.

[ ] a. True

[ ] b. False

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